​I had spoken on the phone to the owner of this horse prior to arriving and I was prepared to deal with a foundered horse, but I wasn't aware of the severity.

This horse has been under veterinary care and was seen by the farrier every 4 weeks for the last few months. There are also underlying PPID and IR issues.
This horse has been very lame for the last year. 

​The only radiographs I had to work with were from 6 months previous. They show significant sinking and rotation, but I suspect the damage is even worse judging by the current state of the hooves. Current radiographs would be extremely helpful, but in this case they are not available.

While this trim seems fairly drastic, I am sure I could have done more if I had current x-rays. This was a step in the right direction to restore function and set up the new growth for coming in. The owner purchased Easyboot Clouds to keep this horse comfortable moving forward and we plan to trim every 3 weeks to start.

In the pictures above you can see the huge lamellar wedge. There is so much separation in this hoof wall. I also tried not to touch the sole at all, what I did trim on the bottom was the overlaid bars and overgrown frog. I also tried to lower the heels to realign the bottom of the coffin bone. This horse has very thick bone, and will naturally have a slightly longer heel then the average 1.25 inches because of that.

From a metabolic standpoint this horse is on low sugar hay in slow feed nets placed around her paddock to increase movement, I also suggested adding biotin to her diet to help with hoof growth, and rechecking her ACTH levels to make sure her Pergolide dosage for her PPID is effective.

​I will update this case study with more picutres next time I see her.

Since the last trim the owner reports that she is moving better, though still sore. She wears the Easyboot Clouds 24/7 right now. This trim I really worked on bringing the heels down a bit more and removing some more of the large wedge from the top. Because the heels were so overgrown the frog was also overgrown, but at the first trim it was very hard and I didn’t want to remove too much. This trim the frogs were very crumbly and I trimmed them down until all the rotten material was gone. I didn’t trim any sole, but I did trim down some overlaid bar off the sole. The bar was also quite crumbly. This is still a huge work in progress and I will see her again in another three weeks and reassess.
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So what's my plan? Generally speaking he has good flexibility in the leg so I can lower the heels about a 1/4 inch at each trim. This leaves them sitting about a 1/4 inch above the height of the sole. In a perfect world I'd like to trim him every two weeks and lower them and 1/8 of an inch at a time instead. I rarely trim the toe other then applying a bevel from the golden line outward, and I usually have a bit of frog to trim and clean up. Thankfully he grows very nice upright and manageable bar so trimming it is easy. I just ramp it down from the heel following the natural concavity of the hoof.

I usually apply a bevel to the heels anytime I have to leave them higher then I would like to. This can also be called a "rocker". ​

With a rocker applied, during motion the horse must extend his stride and flex the tendon just a little bit more in order to land heel first. You must be very careful with this that you don't ask them to extend any farther then they can comfortably handle. If you trim your heels too low or apply too much rocker you could cause them to land toe first to alleviate the discomfort, and/or risk injury. My aim to to ask for an 1/8 of an inch, and over time keep bringing that heel down until it is at a normal level. This of course is the plan, but it is sometimes a work in progress throughout the entire lifespan of the horse. 

Adding to this complicated case is the suspensory injury this horse has. He has an old fractured split bone and as the lower branch of the medial suspensory ligament  moves across it becomes torn and jagged. This has lead to an abundance of scar tissue forming, creating less flexibly and range of motion and frequent bouts of lameness as the inflammation flares up. This pertains to my job aligning the hoof as I don't want to further aggravate the injury, so I am forced to trim very conservatively until the owner and vet decide on a course of action for this reoccurring issue.
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This 5 year old mini found her way here recently, her history is unknown. She is severely foundered and was having difficulty walking, and spent most of her time laying down. She doesn't appear to have the typical metabolic syndrome "look" to her, I suspect she has foundered from lack of trimming. Although this trim is significant, I will be trimming her again in a week or so to adjust a few more angles, lower some of the heels a bit more and double check the hoof balance. This was a big change for her and she was very sore so I had to work quickly and didn't get a chance to really make the trim complete. After the trim she is moving well, though still a little bit stiffly. She will have 24/7 turnout on the track with the herd, and I suspect the stiffness is more body related due to the angle changes and will subside quickly. 

This is a maintenance trim on Jack, our IR school pony. He is trimmed every 4-6 weeks so there is usually little distortion and just a bit of excess length.

Because he is IR, we diligently manage his weight and he rarely if ever gets grazing time (always with a muzzle). He lives out 24/7 on our Paddock Paradise track system.

​Please excuse the sometimes less then perfect video angles, trimming while filming with my GoPro on my head is a bit of an art lol.

The pics below are from Odin's initial shoe pull and trim. We applied composite shoes to his fronts to provide artificial concavity due to his flat soles. You can see the long leveraging toe, flat sole and low, crushed heels.

I opted to set the breakover far back under the composite shoe in order to reduce the leverage on the new growth just below and coronary band.

Today I pulled the composite shoes and after the trim applied Glue on Easyshoe Performance shoes.
The focus was on bringing the toes back to relieve the leverage on the hoof wall as well as to allow the heels to come in at a steeper angle in order to bring the weight bearing surface back underneath the horse.
Read through the comments on the individual pictures for a more in-depth explanation.

A bit of time has passed since Odin's last update. He recently became one of our school horses so that I can give him the routine care that I think he needs. Odin presents as quite stiff and sore and very reluctant to move forward. I think he has a few combined issues and I hopeful we can help him to improve and maybe one day use him in our Youth Program. Along with his under run heels, Odin has long stretched forward toes and thin soles. He was also diagnosed with kissing spine before he came here. 

​Today I applied EasyShoe Performance NG's with 11 finger tabs, Duplo wedges, DIM for support and Artimud to combat moisture. 

​Below are the modified composites I applied. I favor the EasyShoe Performance NG's and Easyshoe Versa Grip Lights. You can use plastic wedges as well, or even build up a wedge with glue but I prefer the simplicity of the Duplo Wedges. I love how versatile these composite shoes are with the 11 finger tabs. This pics below show the shoes before I welded more tabs on. These shoes have been used a few times and you can see they still have a lot of life left to be used again. This is one of my favorite things about the 11 finger tabs, they can be ground off and new one welded on once they get too thin or lose their shape.

Our world is ever changing and the technology and research in the farrier industry is evolving fast. Composite shoes and pads are flooding the market, being manufactured by many different companies around the world.  

While I am a huge barefoot advocate, I am also an advocate for keeping horses comfortable and sometimes that means they require hoof protection. I am not in favor of traditional metal shoes because in my opinion they are too rigid and limit hoof flexion as well as increase the impact energy of movement (by negating digital cushion function). This impact must then be absorbed by the horse's joints and musculoskeletal system. Metal shoes also peripherally load the hoof (meaning they only weight the outer hoof wall), causing frog and digital cushion atrophy and lack of sole stimulation.

Composite shoes are a good alternative as they can provide protection and comfort while still allowing the hoof to function naturally to absorb impact. This is because of their anatomically minded design that incorporates weighting the frog and therefore the digital cushions as well as the sole, bars and hoof wall collectively. [Weighting the whole bottom of the hoof as nature intended]

Like traditional shoes, composites can be used in concert with hoof packing, wedges, anti fungal pastes, and be customized to the individual horses' needs and hoof shape.

In order to fully understand the benefits that composite shoes can provide we have to understand when they may be a good option for a horse. I see all shoes, boots, pads, casts and hoof protection sources as a band aid approach. This is not a negative thing, but should be seen as a means to an end. In other words we should use these devices to keep the horse comfortable while we are addressing the root cause of the problem (i.e. weak or damaged hooves) so that we can ultimately return proper hoof form and function so that protection is not needed.

Horses that have thin soles, disconnected hoof walls, weak frogs and digital cushions, who are foundered or have navicular disease can all benefit from the use of composite shoes. 

Below are several examples where I have applied composite shoes for various reasons:

​Horses that have thin soles also benefit from composites. They protect the sole and cause it to thicken by decreasing the wear on it. It is common practice for traditional farriers to "clean up" the sole during a trim, or "carve in concavity", thereby thinning the sole and removing the often ugly but helpful protective outer layer. Routine trimming like this leads to thins and weak soles that are unable to bear weight. Giving the sole a reprieve by using composite shoes call allow it to thicken and then we can transition back to barefoot in a way that allows proper hoof function to actually stimulate more sole growth and an overall thicker, healthier sole.

Horses with navicular disease or a weak caudal hoof can also benefit from using composite shoes. The design of the composite shoes I use (Easyshoe Versa product line) incorporate frog support and a thick outer rim that also weights the sole of the hoof. Typically the back of the hoof becomes weak from a lack of proper stimulation. Traditional metal shoes only weight the heels and hoof wall, lifting the frog off of the ground. This lift reduces stimulation on the frog and therefore the underlying tissues of the digital cushion. This lack of stimulation over time can lead to atrophy and degeneration. When the soft tissue starts to fail, the horse usually overloads the toe and avoids weighting the heels, further compounding the problem and this can lead to irreversible damage to the navicular region. Using a composite shoe with sole packing and/or heel padding can often create enough of a cushion that these horses can start to comfortably weight the rear of the hoof again and start to regenerate the soft tissues. Over time you can reduce the padding and sole packing and eventually move from composite shoes back to barefoot. Prioritizing heel first landings is key to this rehabilitation process.

I love to be able to utilize composite shoes when needed in my practice. They truly have become a game changer for me. For clients who are not interested in using hoof boots, or horses that require 24/7 support in the beginning of their rehab these shoes can be the difference between soundness and pain. 

In all actuality everything we can do with composite shoes can be done with some variation of hoof casts, boots and pads, but often the use of the composite shoes  is far more convenient for the owner. While my primary goal is to help the horses, I can't facilitate that if I don't keep the owners happy :)

This hoof belonged to Ruby, one of our rescue ponies. She was chronically foundered and suffered from untreated PPID before we got her. We tried for three years to help her but ultimately when the bad days started to outnumber the good ones we had to end her suffering.

When Ruby first arrived she was emaciated and had very long overgrown, foundered hooves. But she was the kind of pony who always looked at you with appreciation in her eyes. We had her examined by our Vet right away and he floated her teeth, ran bloodwork and got her started on medication for the PPID. During the next three years she was off an on again sound, and had frequent bouts of laminitis. 

Yes!!!

As a professional trimmer I have seen it all. I have trimmed rescue horses, show horses, race horses, competitive horses and backyard pasture ornament horses. From mini sized to draft sized, there are very few constants in trimming. Hoof shapes and sizes vary, conformation plays a huge part, but I can tell you with 100 percent certainty that the horse who behaves well always gets the best trim. 

I got into this line of work because I love horses. And it is legitimately my life's mission to help as many horses as possible. However, I have to keep my own personal safety at the top of my priority list when working, or else I may not be able to help any horses if I get hurt.

Horse's that kick or strike or bite are a no brainier. These horse's need training before I can work on them, period. I am not a trainer in the capacity of my job as a trimmer, and if you wouldn't pick up it's hooves to clean them, don't call me to come and trim them. You would be amazed at how many clients I have encountered that I have asked "and how is she when you clean out her back hooves?, does she kick?" and to this their reply is "I wouldn't know, I was too nervous to try", or "well she tried to kick me, but I figured with your experience you would be fine". ---> Insert eyeroll here. 

So when I am dealing with a horse that is dancing around, pulling their hoof away, or any other annoying but not necessarily as dangerous as it could be behavior, I still have to be on guard. This means that sometimes I don't get to stand in the most comfortable position to trim, I don't get to get a thorough look at the hoof to assess balance etc, I have to trim on the fly so to speak and get done what I can in the moment. 

Accommodating horses because of behavior issues is challenging and it definitely compromises the trim quality. In my experience there is a huge difference between horses that have physical limitations or injuries that make it hard for them to stand for trimming and difficult horses due to behavior. Horses with physical issues aren't trying to get out of trimming, they are just trying to survive and reduce their pain or discomfort. I don't mind contorting myself in order to get them trimmed and keep them comfortable, but ultimately it does mean that they don't always get a complete trim. For instance sometimes horses can't lift the leg high enough for me to hold or use my stand, these horses get a functional trim but I can't be as detailed as I'd like. Functional is key here. I have trimmed horses where I have had to kneel down behind a back leg in order to trim because they had arthritis. I would not put myself in a compromising position like that with an ill behaved horse.

Ill behaved horses aren't trying to be difficult, but they don't know better if we don't teach them. As I mentioned above, it is not in my capacity as a trimmer to train client's horses. I am also not the type of trimmer that will "smack a horse" with my rasp or "discipline" a horse (not that I believe this type of discipline is particularly helpful anyway). I believe that correcting these behaviors is the owner's job, and often times when a horse is misbehaving I will step back and look to the owner to correct the problem. 

When I am training my own horses to stand for trimming their are a few techniques that I use. First let me start off by saying that picking up and holding the hooves has nothing to do with the hooves. This can be a hard concept for people to grasp, but it is a respect issue and not a hoof issue. Moving your horse on the ground is the key to teaching them to stand. Can you circle them, send them out, bring them back, ask them to move their feet faster, slower, stop? You will gain their respect and they will let you be the leader if you can take control of their movement and show them that you are in charge of the space, but that you are fair. 

When I have a horse that is dancing around and doesn't want to stand I give them a choice. They can choose to stand nicely, or I will ask them to move their feet or do something that requires more energy or thought until such a point that they will choose to stand still. This isn't a punishment, it is a choice. Forcing an anxious bouncing horse to stand still is dangerous, they are bound to explode at some point and it's better to channel that anxiety into movement and getting them back to the thinking side of their brain as opposed to the reaction side. 

Horses that are stubborn or dominant (read left brained) usually respond well to backing up. Again I offer a choice: they can stand still and let me trim, or we can back up with effort clear across the arena. After one or two back up sessions they usually choose to stand still.

I used to trim an Appaloosa and it could take up to an hour to get him trimmed. He would dance around and pull the rope from the owner's hands and run off etc. He generally had poor manners to begin with, and she was a very passive owner who allowed him to take control of the relationship. One day she couldn't be present for the trim and asked me to do it alone. It took me approx. 20 mins start to finish to get him trimmed. This is how I set him up to succeed: First, I attached a long line to his halter instead of a lead rope, and I didn't tie him, I just left the rope on the ground in front of him where I could quickly and easily grab it if he decided to run off etc. Second, every singe time he pulled his foot away or even thought about trying to leave I dropped everything, literally dropped my tools, and backed him up with serious effort about 50 feet. When I say back him with effort I mean quickly and with purpose. No dawdling or lazily drifting backward. And I did not get rough with him, but I made sure he knew that he needed to get out of my space in backward fashion ASAP. After about 3 of these little back ups, he stood like a champ for the trim and every trim after that. He just needed to understand his choices (and boundaries).

Trimming is an art form. Understanding the anatomy and function is key, but also being able to physically apply the desired to trim appropriate to the anatomy is the bigger picture. I am constantly trimming, then assessing, tweaking the trim, checking again, etc. And when the horse starts getting impatient and pulling away I may miss a small detail or little assessment that might result in imbalance or unevenness. While I always try to do the best trim possible, there are a lot of factors that can impact the quality of the trim. 

Having a clean and dry place to work also makes a big difference. Trying to trim wet and muddy/snowy hooves is a nightmare. They are slippery, I can't hold them, and my tools get clogged and jammed. If the horse is short on patience to begin with and every time he takes his foot away he puts it down in mud, I have to then clean it again before I can continue to work. This is frustrating and it also tests the horse's patience as the trim takes longer. I don't need to have a barn or stall to work in, but a simple rubber mat on the ground or a concrete driveway makes a big difference. Toweling off your horse's legs so they aren't caked with mud is also helpful. (Pro Tip: make sure your horse is comfortable standing on the rubber mat before the farrier arrives lol).

So the next time that your farrier or trimmer is around, pay attention to how well your horse stands for them and how easily they seem to be able to do their job. If you see any errant behaviors that you could address before their next visit, I'm sure they would appreciate it. And if you see something but aren't sure how to correct it, as your trimmer. They may have an idea for you, or a technique that they have found worked in the past, and I guarantee they will very much appreciate your concern for their safety and ability to perform their job.

I hope after reading this article that you understand it is in your horse's best interest to behave well for trimming as they will get a far more detailed and thorough trim if they stand quietly, plus your farrier may come back a second time (wink).

Montana is a paint mare that presented with a disconnected hoof wall, and both rotation and sinking of the coffin bone. She has an extremely flared hoof capsule and a very flat sole with zero concavity. Her owner repots that she is tender when ridden barefoot and "requires shoes or boots" when ridden to keep her sound.

​I opted for a conservative trim, steeply beveling the toe to reduce leverage, but leaving excess heel and quarters in order to provide some "false concavity".

On the bottom view you can see the bruising on the sole directly under the coffin bone from the lack of concavity and too much solar pressure. She has boots and pads to keep her comfortable for now and we will likely move to composite shoes for riding season in order to give her some long term comfort and “false concavity” to relieve that solar pressure.
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You can see the huge abscess she blew along the heel bulbs and frog as well. I wouldn’t be surprised if that starts to separate as it grows out.

Her owner reports that she has been moving really well and only required boots for a few days after the last trim and when riding. 

This trim was similar to the previous one in that I steeply beveled the toe to reduce leverage, though this time I did not leave excess heel and quarter height. The heels were starting to fold over and quarter was breaking away. 

You can see the connected hoof wall growth coming down farther from the coronary band as well. Overall I am very pleased with her progress thus far.

I am happy with the progress so far, the hoof wall connection is coming in and Montana has been moving well. The key here is keeping the leverage back so that it doesn't undermine the connection up higher. 

This trim was a couple of weeks early but because I was in her area with my students during the 6 day course I thought we would touch up her trim and use her as a case study to teach the students. Montana is still very comfortable and the connection is coming down the hoof wall. Her owner is still using boots for riding and is very pleased with her progress.

I got a call from Montana's owner that about 3 weeks post trim she came up lame that morning. We suspected abscessing and the owner soaked daily for about a week. Nothing presented but Montana came in and out of soundness during that time. When I arrived I could not see any sign of an abscess, and noticed that she was very tender in all 4 feet and having trouble walking on the gravel driveway. We concluded that possibly due to the recent rainfall (it had been a previously very dry period) and the wet ground perhaps the moisture had softened Montana's thin soles and we opted to apply Easyshoe Versa composite shoes to her fronts. The owner reported about three days later that Montana was very sound and she was able to ride her. 

My goal will still be to grow in healthy wall connection and allow the sole to thicken. We will likely keep using the composite shoes for the summer riding season with the hope that in the fall she will be able to transition back to barefoot and then hopefully next spring not require the use of composite shoes.

I purchased Flash in August of 2020 to be one of our school horses used during our trimming courses and because he had been diagnosed with Navicular Syndrome by the previous owner's Vet and I wanted to both help improve his condition and study him.

I am somewhat skeptical of the diagnosis as it was made without radiographs to confirm, and was only based on the Vet's opinion of how he was moving at the time. If you look at his initial photos and hoof conformation I struggle to understand how a diagnosis could have been made solely by assessing his movement with his hooves in that condition.

Either way I am moving forward under the assumption he may have Navicular Syndrome and treating him as I would treat any horse; with proper frequent trims, a good diet and turnout 24/7 on my track with my herd. 

Though it's not the best video to showcase his movement, you can see that he us kicking forward sand with his front hooves. This is due to toe first landings.

He is still pretty stiff through the body, and if landing flat, avoiding using his heels.

This is by far the best I have seen him moving. Still landing flat and with hesitation, but overall significantly improved from before. 

After this trim Flash was sounder then he has been since he arrived. I have also noticed a huge change in his behavior over the last month. He has finally settled into the herd and has started to approach me and ask for attention. Something he was never interested in before. After this trim I even rode him lightly in the arena for a few minutes, this was his first ride since we brought him home, and probably his first ride in over a year. 

I would still like to see him grow in more hoof wall connection as well as stronger digital cushions. As he grows in more wall connection I also expect that his concavity will increase and his soles will thicken, resulting in less bruising. 

Flash has been doing well, he has gone from unsound to sound on the track where he lives and sound in the sand arena. Because of his progress we have started riding him and I have found he is tender on rocks and hard surfaces. I wanted to try a composite application to see if we can build more sole thickness and continue to ride him. I glued on Easyshoe Performance Shoes, with a soft sole packing underneath and topped the application off with a thin layer of 3M casting. 

​The following video was from immediately after the composite application

The following video was from later in the evening on the same day of composite application

Watching Flash improve has been very emotional. He has gone from a very shut down horse to an in your pocket and really friendly guy. He is a favorite among the youth that I work with and has been sound enough to use in the program since the August 2021. He spend most of the summer in Easyshoe Versa Grip Lights glued on with the 11 finger tab system. This product packed with dental impression material both protected and stimulated the back of his hooves and caused his frog to grow in wider and thicker, as a result of the improving health of the digital cushion. 

Even though I was watching his soundness and comfort improve I was feeling a bit discouraged with the progress of his hooves until I put these pictures from the beginning of his journey along side the current hoof pictures. I can see that the overall angle of the hooves has changed dramatically and the heel is much farther back underneath the hoof. Also the entire back of the hoof has changed. The frog is wider, but the heel bulbs are also wider and more "full", with a much stronger digital cushion under there. 

While there is still improvement to be made I am much happier with Flash's progress having looked at how far he's come. 

What is breakover when talked about as a trimming landmark?

Breakover is trimmed at the forward most part of the hoof at the toe. It is the very last part of the hoof to be touching the ground as the horse breaks over and lifts the leg into the swing phase of the stride. It is usually trimmed as a bevel or roll into the hoof wall, but occasionally is trimmed back farther into the golden line or even the sole if the sole is very stretched forward.

How do you know where to set breakover? 

There are a couple of ways. This picture shows the angle of new growth at the coronary band and if we were to follow it all the way down, breakover should be where the hoof wall would be if it were well connected. Follow the green line down and it shows the beginning of where I trimmed breakover in line with that upper growth. 

Another way I determine breakover is by reading the sole’s concavity. Solar concavity mimics the coffin bone concavity, so following the concavity out until it plateaus is sometimes also an indicator of where breakover should be, but there are a few exceptions to this method. For instance a foundered horse will have very little to no concavity, and a horse with retained sole may not show the concavity properly. 

The following video is a good example of setting breakover on a healthy hoof based on solar concavity. This process would be somewhat similar on a foundered hoof or a hoof with a lack of concavity, but we must make sure not to trim too short as generally hooves with less concavity have a thin sole and a lack of hoof wall connection. In those cases I find trimming breakover according to the new growth at the coronary band more accurate.

The picture above shows breakover set at the edge of the sole along the top of the ridge of concavity. There is a little bit of excess sole at the tip of the frog, or just behind what we would call the toe callous, but if you could envision the concavity on either side wrapping around and meeting up underneath it, the bevel or breakover would be along that edge.

​In my opinion setting a proper breakover is probably the single most important part of the trim, and one of the main aspects of trimming that I find a lot of professionals get wrong.

I get asked about pulling shoes a lot and the following video shows two different techniques that I use. I use the same method for pulling composite shoes as well! I usually prefer to use a pair of old nippers or nail cutters and an old rasp.

Dixie is an 11 year QH mare, who has suffered with this toe crack for several years. Her current owner purchased her in the spring of 2000 and had been working with a vet and corrective farrier for 8 months without significant progress. She decided to try a different approach and brought her here to OKSNHC for rehab in January 2021.

The album below shows the before photos and first trim results. There are captions on some photos to explain important points.
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My plan this trim was to further reduce the long toe and just see how the new growth is coming in. It has only been a couple of weeks since the last trim so not a ton of new growth, but overall I am happy with the progress. Today I opted to cast only and when these wear off in 1-2 weeks I will soak again to treat that crack for fungus and bacteria and likely apply casting and composite shoes again, though she seemed just as comfortable in the casting alone without the composites. 
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This was the first trim that I was able to lower the heels and quarters to a normal level as I planned to apply composite shoes to create the "artificial concavity" that I have been achieving by leaving them high. Her sole is still very flat, though there is concavity starting to form. The crack on the FR is also starting to grow down from the coronary band closed. This is extremely exciting as this mare has had this crack for 5 years! Overall, there is about an 3/4 of an inch of tighter new growth at the coronary band since I began to trim her on  January 23 2021. I applied composite shoes, packed with Artimud, and plan to leave them on until early April. She was off at the trot before the trim and slightly worse after after. I believe this is due both the shorter trim to accommodate the composites, and to corium inflammation due to the flat sole.  In a few days I will take more video to see if  the inflammation has subsided with the composites applied.

Overall Dixie has been doing well, but I felt like there was too much pressure on the crack, causing it to continue up into the new growth, just superficially, I trimmed her toe back and for the first time was able to remove the excess heel and quarter that I had been leaving to give her artificial concavity. I applied a glue on Easyshoe Performance, and wrapped in 1/2 a roll of 3M casting to further secure the glue. I also packed the Easyshoe with a soft sole packing. She is moving very sound in this set up. You can see on the glue application that I set the shoe right back to where I wanted her breakover to be. This is extremely important in reducing the leverage on the toe crack. If the shoe is set too far forward as seen in the picture above, the leverage on the crack would be increased causing it to continue to split. 

It's  a bittersweet moment for us here at OKSNHC as Dixie gets ready to go home! Just over 6 months have passed, and Dixie has grown in almost an entirely new hoof! The crack is almost grown out, likely just one more trim will see that through. Dixie's home is about 2.5 hours from me, so one of my students will now be taking over her care along side her owner.

The small vertical crack you can see just above the trimmed area is superficial and will also grow out within the next couple of trims. Over the next 6 months, with proper trimming I expect Dixie to be able to grow in an even better connected hoof wall. You can see the marker lines I drew in the after trim pic showing the various levels of wall angle deviation. These angles are based on hoof leverage and reducing this leverage was my entire goal during this rehab resulting in being bale to grow out the crack.

For over 5 years Dixie suffered with that crack, being worked on by some very experienced and knowledgeable farriers. Clearly from the before picture you can see that they tried everything they knew. Shoes to hold the crack together, glue to help keep it together... I have always and will always maintain, it's not a shod vs barefoot debate, its the trim under the shoe or without the shoe that counts.

Throughout the rehab Dixie had highs and lows. There were some moments she required a composite shoe or hoof cast to be comfortable, and now 6 months later she is sound barefoot. Her transition is not entirely complete, she will require hoof boots for trail riding on rocky ground until she can build more callous and get used to the terrain, but in the paddock, pasture and arena she is 100% sound barefoot. 

This photo is a great illustration of trimming a tall vertical bar in order to allow downward expansion of the hoof during the peak impact phase of loading.

I like to trim the tall vertical bar to ramp downwards from just in front of the heel surface along the natural concavity of the sole.

[The natural function of the hoof to dissipate impact energy works like this:

First the heels and frog strike the ground. This allows the digital cushion to absorb the brunt of the impact because it is made up of elastic fiber-rich dynamic tissues. These tissues are able to compress and store energy under load.

The hoof then rolls over onto the solar surface allowing the digital cushion to further compress and the natural arch of the hoof to expand downward. This includes the expansion of both the heels and the collateral grooves.

The hoof then breaks over at the toe, allowing the digital cushion to use this stored energy to drive recoil back to a resting state.]

The solar arch on the bottom of the hoof allows this downward expansion to happen without restriction. We also have to consider is the horses willingness to weight the hoof during this phase of the stride. If we leave the bar high and vertical, when the hoof rolls over onto the solar surface the bar can act as a pressure point and cause excess pressure on the DDFT and navicular bone. This can then alter the horse's stride and cause them to land laterally or toe first. Altered landings can cause the impact energy to have to be absorbed by the horse's joints and muscles and lead to further issues.
It is important to recognize that over trimming, just like under trimming the bars, can also have negative implications to the hoof. The bar makes up half of the collateral groove and the frog makes up the other half. If we trim the bar too low, the grooves will become shallow and reduce the natural concavity that the hoof needs in order to expand downward. Over trimming the bar can also thin the bar and lead to sensitivity of the bar's corium.

Bar trimming is probably one of the most contentious issues between different methods of barefoot trimming.

Personally I like to keep it simple: trim where needed, don't where it's not and most importantly, do no harm.
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Overlaid or embedded bars grow out laterally over the sole. They often tend to grow over and into the sole creating bruising and sometimes abscessing.

The above picture on the left shows vertical bars and the right shows embedded bar.

Embedded bars are difficult to deal with and left unchecked can lead to bruising, discomfort and abscessing. Embedded bars show up more as a lump overtop of the sole and need to be trimmed so that they aren't causing a pressure point during peak impact. This is easier said then done as they often become ingrown into the sole and have to be trimmed out little by little in order to avoid over thinning the bar/sole junction and causing sensitivity to the bar's corium.

I generally trim embedded bars down to match the natural concavity of the sole, but no lower. I trim frequently and let the sole push them out gradually.

Some horse's are more sensitive and the bar tends to fold over more often then others. In these sensitive horses the bar can bruise and cause discomfort so I tend to trim it more often. I have a mare with PPID and no matter what I do her bars fold over and abscess if left for 4 - 6 weeks. I manage her with bi-weekly trimming just to keep the bars in check and she manages well.

​The following short video shows the difference between trimming vertical and embedded bars.

​Inevitably this time of year I get panicked calls or texts from owners asking about bruising in the white line. When horses are walking in snow and their hooves are relatively clean the bright reddish purple bruising can look quite alarming.

While this bruising can be a sign of something more serious, it is usually just caused by walking on frozen uneven ground.

Most of our domestic horses live in soft dirt paddocks or pastures and during our winters here in Western Canada, the ground will go through periods of thawing and freezing, creating soft mud one day and hard frozen lumpy ground the next. The horses adapt well and can move about awkwardly on the frozen uneven ground, but often they will take a misstep here or there and that can result in bruising of the white line as shown in the picture. This type of bruising is generally is isolated to just one hoof and doesn't generally cause soreness or lead to anything worse, but it can be alarming if you don't know the cause.

What if it's more serious? If you are seeing this bruising when the ground is not frozen and hard, or it is present in both front hooves or all four hooves equally, it could be a sign of repeated toe first landings or even laminitis (caused by metabolic conditions). 

The hoof functions as a shock absorber to the rest of the body, and to work this way the horse must land heel first where all of the shock absorbing structures are located. When there is a breakdown of hoof integrity in the rear of the hoof, horses will compensate by landing toe first. As there are no shock absorbing structures in the front half of the hoof, the impact can create this bruising among other more serious complications. You can use your cell phone to take video of your horse moving at a walk and a trot and play it back in slow motion to determine how they are landing. Occasional toe first landings are normal, such as when a horse is unmotivated or travelling uphill, but repeated toe first landings on soft surfaces such as a sand arena or pasture are a red flag and should be discussed with your vet and farrier.

Laminitis can also cause this bruising and horses with metabolic conditions are at a greater risk of suffering complications during wintertime. Here in Western Canada, it is common among horse owners to try and "fatten their horses up" leading up to wintertime with the belief that they will stay warmer during our cold winter months if they have a little extra "padding". While this is true, often we ride significantly less in the winter leading to a more sedentary day to day life for the horse. This increased weight and feed regimen can lead to an obese horse in a very short timeframe and can lead to laminitis. While I am certainly not advocating for under feeding your horse during winter, I recommend you watch their weight closely and manage it as you would throughout the rest of the year. Metabolic horses are a challenge to care for and keeping an eye on the integrity of the white line can be beneficial in preventing and becoming aware of hoof issues that can lead to laminitis. Bruising can be an indication of laminitic events, even if not enough to trigger full blown laminitis. A stretched white line is an indication of a loss of hoof wall connection and should be discussed with your vet and farrier. 

When I first started trimming almost 10 years ago there were no fancy job titles like hoof care specialist or hoof care practitioner. There were farriers and barefoot trimmers. The former implied you were a blacksmith that could forge handcrafted shoes and the latter meant you were a horse obsessed hippie that thought all horses should should be barefoot in spite of their soundness. What I wanted to do didn't fit into either category so I decided to call myself a natural trimmer. Wild horses don't get their hooves trimmed every 6 weeks, they wear them off constantly because of their nomadic lifestyle. This is natures way of maintaining balance or what I would call "natural". 

Barefoot trimmers back then (and lets be honest even some today) tend to come across as a little bit fanatical. There have been well known trimmers who believed in regular aggressive trimming that made hooves bleed, drastic immediate angle changes to the hoof that left horses sore or caused injury and/or permanent damage and so on. These trimmers also tend to be somewhat overzealous trying to impress their views upon every unsuspecting horse owner they come across. This cult like mentality led to a general resistance in the horse world to the barefoot movement and created a stigma of sorts that all barefoot trimmers must trim aggressively regardless of how it affects the horse. 

I wanted to separate myself from that stigma and at the same time not confuse potential customers by calling myself a farrier. While it's true that farriers don't just forge metal shoes, but also trim hooves, I didn't want to have to explain over and over again that I was only a "barefoot" farrier. 

There it is again, that "barefoot" word. Another reason I have an issue calling myself a barefoot trimmer is that I don't think all horses should be barefoot all of the time. Let me explain. While I do believe the hoof is meant to be bare to be healthy, there are situations where a horse's comfort level needs to be prioritized over these beliefs. And really sometimes a weak or distorted hoof requires some intervention/protection to become healthy again so that it can function as nature intended ---> bare. So in saying this there are cases in my business where I use composite shoes, hoof boots or hoof casts to help rehabilitate hoof issues and therefore I cannot say those horses are "barefoot". 

What I believe is the difference between natural/barefoot trimmers and farriers is that farriers believe the hoof can function optimally with support when fixed with a metal shoe, and natural/barefoot trimmers believe the metal restricts the hoof function and circulation and compromises hoof health. Farriers that use metal shoes routinely restore usability to unsound horses via shoeing and horse owners appreciate this. My concern with is this: if a horse is unsound barefoot due to a weak or compromised hoof and you apply a shoe and the horse walks off sound, did you fix the weakness or just cover it up?

There will always be horse owners that prefer the ease of having their horse shod to maintain or "restore" soundness, and I have no issue with that. In this free world that we live in people are lucky enough to be able to choose what works for them and their horse. My approach to the same weak or compromised hoof might be to use a form of hoof protection when the horse needs it, but ultimately I want to restore hoof health and remove the weakness so that the horse doesn't require the shoe/boot/cast etc in order to be sound.

So ultimately I chose my own path, and called myself a natural trimmer in order to place myself in between what I saw back then as two camps divided. I like to think of myself as Pat Parelli would say as an "extreme middle of the roadist" in all aspects related to horses. And what that means to me is that I try to never become so overzealous in my views that I cannot appreciate another person's point of view, that I will not press my views upon others fanatically, but will share my knowledge openly when asked. I am also not afraid to continue learning and trying new methods and techniques. As Pete Ramey says, I try to "never say never or always" when it comes to trimming because as soon as you do you will encounter a situation where you end up doing something you never thought you would or straying from your usual tactics in the best interest of the horse.

10 years ago when I decided I wanted to learn to trim my horse there weren't many references or places to go to learn. There were of course traditional farrier programs, but I was looking for more a natural approach. I started with reading books by Pete Ramey, Dr. Stausser and other barefoot pioneers but there wasn't a lot available online. This was back before the evolution of Facebook how-to groups and online courses. I struggled my way through balancing what I was reading with my experiments in trimming my own horses and I found that it was an extreme learning curve. Eventually I sought out help and attended one of those traditional farrier courses. I learned a lot about what I wasn't really interested in at that course, but I also learned to use the tools and how to interact with the horses so it was definitely a valuable resource for me. 

What I craved all those years ago was a course that would not only teach the theory and science behind barefoot trimming but would also have a hands on component that could help me to build my skill. After trimming for several years and with the encouragement of Cheryl Henderson of the Oregon School of Natural Hoof Care I was able to put together a program exactly as I had wished for back when I learned to trim in order to help others progress with a less steep learning curve then I had experienced. My ultimate goal has always been to help as many horses as I can in my lifetime and I quickly realized that teaching others how to help horses was the most advantageous way to do that.
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The 6 day barefoot trimming course that I have developed as gone through much evolution since its initial  inception. My first course in 2014 was a bit of trial and error. As I did more courses I was able to refine the process and figure out what parts needed more study time and hands on training by watching the rate at which the students progressed through the program. Now fast forward 5 years and that course is dramatically different then that first one. We have now developed an online course that covers that theory and knowledge base before students even arrive. This gives us more time hands on with the horses and more practice time for students while they can be directly supervised. 

The hardest part about training people to trim is that I have no control over their practices or techniques once they leave my course. I believe that working with horses in any capacity but especially hoof care requires a constant desire to learn. You must become a perpetual student of the horse in order to continue to evolve your learning and not become overconfident or complacent. My all time favorite quote is "he who thinks he knows the most, has the most to learn" (author unknown). I can't stress enough to students when they leave here that my short introductory course to barefoot trimming is simply a starting point. They must continue to evolve their education and build their knowledge base in order to stay relevant and do their best work for horses. I also offer them access to a Facebook group where they can converse with their peers and reach out to me for support and guidance along the way. The 6 day course is not the end of the road, students can attend again in the future for no additional cost and I have seen this second week bring their skills from basic trimming to significantly more advanced. 

As I am always learning and attending as many clinics and workshops as I can I am constantly adding new things into my course and changing up the content to reflect new research and theories surrounding the hoof. I make a point to attend as many clinics as possible and to study as many trimming styles as well as traditional farrier research because I believe that no time learning is wasted. 

This journey to work for horses, as anyone that has horses will tell you, is not lucrative. We put our blood sweat and tears into these animals but the experience of watching them overcome lameness or to be able to rehabilitate them is what keeps me grounded and keeps me going.

Hooves are made of fibrous structural proteins called keratin on the outside and soft tissue surrounding the coffin  bone on the inside. Keratin is a protein chain built of amino acids, I briefly discussed this in my previous blog post. So it makes sense then that if we need to develop stronger hooves or rehabilitate hooves its these amino acids that we should look to balance first.

A horse that is deficient in proteins will usually have dry and brittle hooves. This is not to be confused with dry desert hooves, I am not talking about the moisture content on the outside of the hoof, but more specifically the texture of the hoof material when it is cut into. Dry or brittle hoof will have a hard and non elastic feel when it is rasped or nipped off. A healthy hoof will have a little bit if a spring to it when it is cut, it is more flexible due to the cellular makeup when those proteins are binding and forming the keratin. 

I see these dry and brittle hooves in conjunction with horses that may have an underdeveloped top line and/or a poor hair coat. All of these symptoms can be due to a  lack of amino acids or proteins. I am currently undergoing a series of supplement trials with several of my own horses as well as some client horses. I have seen big changes in the horses that had dry and brittle hooves with very little elasticity when we started to supplement more proteins. 

These trials are purely for my own research, they are not scientific and are based purely on my observations of the hoof health and overall appearance of the horses.

Feed trial #1 is a group of horses that have been fed alfalfa pellets, biotin and a mineral supplement for the past 6 weeks. Nothing else has changed for the horses such as living environment or hay source. Their hooves have gone from very dry and rigid with a brittle feel when cut to much more elastic and resilient feel. These horses also tended to be a bit tender on hard ground with a thin sole and that is improving as well.

I am interested to see if the progress plateaus at some point, which would signal that perhaps the protein deficiency has been restored, or perhaps the absorption of the protein has diminished. Research has shown that it can take up to 2 years to replenish a protein deficiency in horses so this is a long term trial for me. We also have to take into account the supplementation of minerals to help bind these amino acids as well as the digestive system health of the horse which would affect the absorption rate of the supplemented proteins exponentially. Perhaps a horse could be fed the appropriate amount and varieties of amino acids but due to poor gut health could not absorb them. In this case feeding more proteins may well help with the deficiency, but instead restoring optimal gut health via pre and pro biotics may be more effective.

Feed trial #2 is a group of horses with the same dry and brittle feel to their hooves and they are receiving a daily hoof health supplement that is toted as an all in one solution that contains all of the needed proteins, minerals and vitamins for the horse. After only 4 weeks on this feed trial I am seeing incremental changes in the hooves, but the results are less improved as in feed trail #1, more time is needed to study this regimen.

Feed trial #3 is a group of horses that don't have any major outward issues with their hooves. They don't have the dry brittle hoof texture, and have a relatively healthy looking hair coat, however they do show a slight amount of muscle wastage in the top line. They have been fed a hay source high in alfalfa, and have been supplemented with a free choice mineral supplement for approximately 8 weeks. Results have varied among the horses but the ones with more muscle wastage have have improved slightly, while the ones with a lesser degree of muscle wastage have stayed the same. One area where this herd has improved is the incidence of minor thrush in the hoof. In spite of the wet weather due to the season change, these horses hooves appear to be more resistant to developing thrush and have overall healthier frogs then what I was previously seeing in their hooves.

I have several other trials going on with single horses or smaller groups of horses. For me it is very interesting to see the effects of various supplements and what they can do for horses. I am specifically trying to target the hooves, but because horses are so interconnected you really have to address the digestive system as well in order to be sure that what you are supplementing is being properly absorbed. 

​Please take this information for what is is, simply my own thoughts and musings regarding hoof health and supplementation. There are many other things that can and sometimes should be supplemented, for instance omega fatty acids and vitamin e, however you should speak with your veterinarian or equine nutritionist to see what you should specifically be supplementing for your horse. One thing that stands out to me is a conversation I had with a veterinarian a few years back. She said that whatever you are supplementing your horse with should provide a result. Whether that is an improved appearance, health, attitude, emotional state or physical change, there should be some evidence that it is doing something. Otherwise you are likely just feeding something that is passing right through and wasting money you could have spent on something beneficial to your horse. Often you don't know if what you are doing is working until you stop feeding it, sometimes this is where you will see the change either for the good or for the bad. I'm not saying stop feeding supplements or that you must feed x,y and z. I'm just saying know what you are supplementing and why. You know your horse better then anyone else and you can discuss their hoof health with your hoof care provider or your veterinarian and make an informed decision about what supplements might be beneficial for them.

Let me start by prefacing this post with a disclaimer. I am not a nutrition expert, a vet or an employee of a feed company. I don't personally know your horse and its circumstances, so please take this information as just my opinion and don't make any drastic changes to your horse's feed regimen without consulting your veterinarian. What I can offer you is my years of experience and anecdotal evidence around various feeding concepts and how I have seen them impact horses, specifically in the areas of hoof health and function.

I believe in feeding horses naturally. That means lots of forage that is balanced in minerals and energy requirements. If you have the right hay/pasture combination then no supplements should be necessary for a healthy horse. This notion that is common among horse owners that all horses should have some type of grain (ie processed feed) in their diet needs to be better interpreted. If you have a compromised horse with health issues or hoof problems then you may need to add supplements to your forage to help. If you have a horse with extreme energy requirements such as a fast metabolism or a performance horse with a great energy output you may need to add more calories. Its how we add these things that becomes important. My preference would be to add more of the balanced forage as opposed to grain. It equates in humans to someone with a fast metabolism that may have trouble keeping weight on. The healthy option to maintain their weight wouldn't be to eat more fast food. It would be to add more of the healthy food they are eating to try and maintain their body condition and energy requirements. Its the same for our horses.

​The most 3 most common issues I see regarding diet in my trimming practice are:

#1 - too many processed carbohydrates
#2 - mineral deficiency
#3 - protein deficiency

Processed commercial feeds are generally higher in carbohydrates and fillers then people realize. They are "fortified" with added vitamins and minerals, but most horse owners don't even know what those vitamins and minerals are or what they are added to the feed for. Most of those vitamins and minerals are already present in adequate quantities in your horses's pasture and forage and they aren't actually required to be supplemented. Often they are such negligent amounts that it doesn't harm your horse to consume them, but the added carbohydrates in the processed feed may be harming your horse. I have seen a lot of hoof, hair coat, digestive and behavior problems rectified by reducing the carbohydrate intake of the horse. Not reducing the overall fiber and forage intake, but removing processed feeds. Often horse owners feed a "complete feed" in the hopes that it is supplementing everything they think maybe lacking in their forage. While in theory this works, often the amount of that processed feed you would have to feed in order to have your horse receive all of those vitamins, minerals and nutrients far exceeded the amount of processed carbohydrates they should be eating. There are also times that these additives may throw off the balance of absorption of certain things and we have to be cautious not to upset this balance.

There is a time and a place to add supplementation. If your forage is lacking minerals due to overgrazing or mineral depletion of the soil then you may need to add them. You will not be able to tell this by just looking, you will need to run tests on your hay to make sure you are supplementing things that need to be supplemented and are not over supplementing your horse which can lead to mineral toxicity. Testing is easy if you buy your hay from the same source every year, but can be more complicated if you don't. Hay testing is relatively inexpensive ranging from $20 to $100 depending on the panels you want to run. But I assure you they are worth it in the long run. Supplementing minerals that aren't needed could cost your $50+ each month, and large vet bills down the road if you end up with a toxicity. A fastidious hay farmer will fertilize their soil when needed and therefore balance the mineral content of their hay so that you may not have to supplement minerals. It can be worthwhile to speak to hay suppliers about their fertilization practices and the mineral content of their hay before purchasing.

​Protein deficiency is something that not a lot of horse owners understand adequately. Proteins are in every part of your horse and each protein is made of smaller parts that when linked together make up an individual protein with a specific function. Proteins are broken down in the digestive system into smaller parts that form amino acids. Horses require 20 different amino acids to come together in various combinations in order to make up the protein chains that build cells. Most horses are confined to the same overgrazed pasture and same hay source that may not provide all of these amino acids. Some amino acids can be produced from other amino acids, but there are a few that cannot be. These are called limiting amino acids and without them the horse can't form the protein chains needed to adequately build specific cells. So what happens is the horse reabsorbs these proteins from other already produced cells in the body. Because the priority is organ function and cell creation the areas that suffer first and have to recycle their amino acids more frequently are the hair coat, top line muscles, connective tissues and hoof cells. This creates a protein deficiency that has a systemic effect on the horse and can take years to correct.

Supplementing protein can be difficult because of those 20 amino acids. You have to be sure to supplement protein sources that contain the three limiting amino acids or the re-absorption of those amino acids from other areas will continue. High quality protein sources available are alfalfa pellets/cubes which are approximate 17% protein as well as soybean meal which is on average 40% protein. To add context the average protein content of grass hay is anywhere from 8-14%.

This information is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to equine nutrition and you must understand the complete picture before making changes to your horse's feed regimen. Talk to your vet or equine nutritionist and formulate a plan specific to their needs, energy requirements and specifically balanced to your hay or pasture. Equine diet and nutrition has a whole horse effect and if our focus is healthy hooves we have to take the diet into account. The diet builds the cells that make up the hoof and it also has to be balanced within the horse.
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Up until this point I have very purposefully avoided writing about the subject of equine nutrition. The equine industry is full of fancy marketing tactics by feed manufacturers and it seems a lot of people have been brainwashed into thinking that they must feed their horse a specific bagged "grain" in order for their horse to be healthy and thrive. A question I hear often in my trimming practice from horse owners is what type grains they should be feeding their horse. My answer is always why do you need to feed grain? Its sort of a loaded question, some horses have high nutritional requirements and can benefit from added grains, but others don't need them at all so its never a cut and dry answer.

By now if you have read my writings or followed me on social media you should know that I like to encompass a holistic approach when it comes to my horses. This naturally carries through for me when it comes to feeding them. I prefer a forage based diet with as little processed food as possible. Horses by nature are grazers, they should spend 16 or so hours a day browsing around for food a bite here and a bite there - a constant stream of forage into the digestive system. But what we need to understand about that is that they are not grazers in the sense that they should be grazing lush grass pastures for 16 hours a day, mouthful after mouthful of lush sugar laden green grass. 

The equine digestive system requires a delicate balance. Too many carbohydrates (sugars) and you can end up with systemic issues such as insulin disregulation and laminitis. Too little forage and you can cause irritation in the stomach and create ulcers and imbalances with the healthy digestive bacteria. Too little protein and you will see muscle wastage and protein deficiency, too much protein and you could cause damage to the horse's kidneys and liver. By now you might be able to see why I have avoided writing about nutrition.

What happens in domestication is that we commonly overgraze our pastures, either by having too small of a space of the number of horses we have or by not rotating the horses in order to give the grass a break. This cycle usually sees the pastures with tall dense green grass in the springtime and early summer and then as the summers goes on this grass becomes overgrazed creating high stress levels in the grass and root systems, even worse then the tall lush grass of spring. The horses often favor this short grass because it is higher in sugar and more palatable. If you have ever walked through a horse pasture you will have seen clumps of tall grass that the horses will avoid, instead they tend to prefer the very short grass with the root systems exposed. This is because the tall grass, still full of carbohydrates, is usually significantly less carb laden then the short grass and exposed root.

Horses don't always know what food is good for them as they exist on a very primitive level when it comes to eating in comparison to humans. Their brains are telling them that winter is coming and they need to build has much body fat as possible to protect themselves from the harsh cold weather. Their brain doesn't know that they will be wearing three rugs and fed warm mash twice a day as our human brain does. Horses in nature have a very natural cycle of weight gain and loss throughout the year. They build up body fat all spring, summer and fall in order to make it through the harsher winter foraging beneath the snow. This is how the ancestors of our domestic horse are programmed and this programming has been passed down to our domestic horses. They don't understand that they are now living in Florida and won't require those extra calories, they just exist as they are designed to, using those biological instincts to guide them.

So it is then up to us as the caretakers for our horses to provide them with the best possible diet suited to their individual needs. So what does that mean? To me it means keep things simple. Natural is simple for me. I feed my horses forage, good quality hay low in sugar, higher in protein with a balanced mineral makeup and in quantities that keep their body condition in an optimal state for each individual horse. It might sound primitive but if one of my horse starts to look underweight I add more forage, if the are looking overweight I decrease forage. There is no preset percentage of body weight feed ratio that I follow, I visually interpret the results of my feeding program and adjust accordingly. This works well for me for a horse with no health complications who may be in mild to moderate work schedule. Where things can start to get complicated is the horses with compromised health, horses who are performance athletes, old horses, young horses and injured horses. It is also difficult if your hay is not balanced in mineral makeup or may be high in sugar and lacking protein or vice versa. These are challenges we all face and this is where feed companies have found their market. 

So what can we do to make up for a deficit in our hay? To help our aging horse or our compromised horse? Stay tuned for my next blog post to answer those questions and more!

Thrush is something that at one time or another all horse owners will likely have to deal with. It is not a product of neglectful horse care, nor is it a product of unsanitary living environment etc. Thrush is a combination of bacteria and fungus that can eat away at the frog tissue in the hoof. These bacteria and fungus are more prominent in wet conditions and thrive in moist ground, but can also be a problem in dry conditions. In the image above you will see the healthy frog on the right, the thrush infected frog on the left. You will notice that the central sulcus, the area at the rear of the frog in the middle, in the healthy hoof is just a small indent, but in the affected hoof it is a deep crack. This is the first area that thrush usually starts to affect. What happens is the the thrush eats away at the healthy tissue and creates a "home" for itself within the sulcus of the frog. The deeper the crack, the better the hiding spot for the thrush to thrive and eat more healthy tissue. It is a vicious cycle and can be extremely hard to beat once it gets to this advanced stage.

Minor surface thrush is much easier to deal with. Some ratty tags on the frog, or a small infection of the central sulcus can usually be treated with diligent hoof picking and 2-3 times a week topical treatments with Artimud and/or HoofStuff. More severe thrush can take weeks or even months to clear up and can require soaking, booting and even diet/nutrition changes. 

So why is thrush an issue? At the start with a minor case, thrush doesn't really alter the horse in any way. If we catch it early enough and treat it then it is a non issue. If thrush persists and manages to eat into the frog tissue deeper it can cause the horse to feel some sensitivity when loading the back of their hoof and can cause them to land flat or toe first as opposed to heel first as they are intended to land. Horses land heel first in order to use the frog and its underlying structure, the digital cushion, to absorb impact and dissipate energy vibrations. When the horse alters its movement and doesn't land heel first that impact energy travels up the leg into the joints, shoulders/hip and back and causes excess strain on the body. This can create a cascade effect that can significantly affect the performance of the horse and in serious cases can even lead to lameness.

When the thrush eats through the frog and into the sensitive digital cushion it is extremely painful for the horse. The hoof and its outside structures are designed to protect, and are insensitive structures, meaning they do not have nerves and blood supply directly within them. The nerve receptors and blood supply are located within the sensitive structures: the digital cushion, solar corium and lamina. So this means that a minor surface infection of the frog really won't cause much pain, however once the thrush eats into the digital cushion it is in fact an open wound of the horse, and is painful when impacting the ground. The horse then alters their movement to avoid loading the frog as much as possible. This is an issue because of the previously mentioned strain on the body, but also because healthy frog tissue is generated because of positive impact forces, and without the horse loading the frog it won't receive these forces. This creates a long term problem as the frog and digital cushion will atrophy over time due to lack of stimulation and will alter the shape of the hoof capsule. You then have a significant reduction of impact energy dissipation and a horse that is absorbing that impact in their joints, therefore more prone to develop arthritis and other joint related conditions.

The pictures below show you the severity of a thrush infection once it gets into the digital cushion. These cadavers have the outside structures removed and the one on the left has an infection so deep that a hoof pick can be inserted into the crack approx 1/2 an inch. This is a deep open wound for the horse and extremely painful. The cadaver on the right shows a healthy digital cushion with a normal central sulcus without infection.

So what can we do about it? For minor infections treating topically is easy. Your local tack store will have several products available that are designed to kill the harmful bacteria and fungus that cause thrush. ​My personal word of of caution would be to read the ingredients label on those products. What you want is something that will kill the harmful bacteria and fungus, but not the healthy tissue. A lot of commercially made thrush products have ingredients like formaldehyde, formalin, turpentine etc. These substances are toxic to healthy tissues and will indeed kill the thrush but also the regenerating frog tissue. My favorite thrush products are made by Red Horse and are Artimud and HoofStuff.

Think about a deep thrush infection like an open wound on your own skin. Use products that will keep it clean but also encourage healthy growth. Products such as antibacterial wound scrubs used in human medicine, as well as barrier creams and ointments. My personal method for treating for this type of infection is as follows:

• Thoroughly clean the hoof - I use Sole Cleanse to get into and around the crevices in the frog (be careful with a deep infection, it will hurt your horse to scrub inside there, instead use a syringe to flush the area with your cleaning solution). You can also soak in products such as White Lightning or Cleantrax. 

   

• Dry the hoof and apply HoofStuff in the central sulcus of the frog very gently with your hoof pick. Then apply Artimud to the entire frog and collateral grooves. Remember less is more, you do not need to overfill the grooves.

 

• Prepare your hoof boot of choice. Boots will help to keep the frog clean and dry and make sure your horse can't stand with their feet in their urine or manure which will further exasperate the infection. I use my Cavallo Trek boots, with a 1/2 inch thick felt pad inside, topped with GoldBond Medicated Foot Powder. Put the clean and dry hoof, coated in the zinc oxide cream into the boot. Note: to make felt boot pads I buy a 1/2 inch thick felt saddle pad for approx $40 and cut several boot pads out of this pad. It is far more economical then buying individual boot pads and they are machine washable and can be used a few times before they wear out. 

 

• Repeat this process every second day. Continue this regimen until the infection has closed and the frog is sufficiently regenerated. For some horses long term boots can rub or irritate their heel bulbs or pasterns. Make sure you have the right fit of boot and style that can accommodate a felt pad, and I also use the Cavallo Pastern Wraps when needed.