The hoof care industry is evolving rapidly, and glue-on plastic and composite shoes have revolutionized how I rehab and support horses in my business.

While hoof boots have their place, I often prefer more consistent support that doesn’t require frequent cleaning, avoids rubbing the pastern, and doesn’t extend the hoof print, which could add leverage to an already compromised hoof.

So, which composite shoe is right for your horse? With so many options on the market, I’m breaking down my top choices and when I find them most effective.

**First, a quick note on terminology:**
A composite shoe is typically a blend of materials, often plastic with a metal core or clips. A plastic shoe is 100% plastic, without metal reinforcement. While many use these terms interchangeably, I prefer the completely plastic variety due to its flexibility and reduced impact forces compared to metal. So, when I say "composite shoe," for the purpose of this post, I’m referring to plastic-only shoes.

In my business, I rely on six main styles of shoes, made by Duplo in Germany and Easycare Inc. in the US. These shoes share key features: they’re 100% plastic, provide frog support to utilize the digital cushion, and offer "artificial" concavity to the sole. Here’s my go-to lineup:

The Duplo Classic is probably my favorite shoe for your everyday needs; a horse with thin soles who is sensitive on rocky ground or for basic support. What I like about this shoe is the hardness of the plastic - hard enough to hold its shape and offer support, and yet absorbs concussion and protects the horse's joints from impact. This line of shoe is also easy to customize to fit the hoof shape perfectly, and I can plastic weld on my desired tabs for superglue application. I also use this shoe for rehab when working with foundered horses or horses with caudal failure and/or where I need to use hoof packing. This shoe holds up well for multiple resets which makes it a cost effective option as well. 

Easyshoe Versa Grip Light: A close second, with slightly softer plastic, making it ideal for healthy hooves that need a bit of protection without too much rigidity.

Easyshoe Octo: My top-selling shoe. It’s a slightly rounder version of the Versa Grip Light with pre-installed tabs, making it a convenient option for those who prefer not to plastic weld. It’s great when it fits perfectly right out of the box and can be reset multiple times. If needed, you can also remove the tabs, reshape the shoe, and add new ones. A word to the wise, this shoe tends to fit 2mm big so I generally size down. 

Duplo Base Plate: Similar to the Classic but with a closed solar surface, perfect for muddy conditions or when debris might get trapped between the shoe and the hoof. The closed sole helps keep hoof packing or thrush treatment in place, but be cautious when packing to ensure that you don't cause too much pressure to be applied to the frog or sole as the excess packing can't squeeze out during curing. 

Easyshoe Speed: An upgrade from the Octo, the webbing around the sole (the part the horse stands on) is slightly narrower, and this shoe provides essential solar concavity and frog support. It also has the ability for you to cut out a keyhole in the frog support to allow the shoe to bend and flex a little more. My only reservation with this shoe is that the preinstalled cuffs are meant to be used with acrylic or similar glue and not superglue. I favor the superglue for its ease of application, hoof prep and durability as well as it's ability to withstand moisture. When I use the Easyshoe Speed I tend to modify the factory cuffs to accept superglue or remove them and plastic weld on my preferred tabs. 

Easyshoe 3D: My go-to for healthy hooves needing minimal support. Its low-profile design allows the hoof to function naturally and absorb impact. Though it’s less cost-effective due to its tendency to stretch and wear out faster, it’s an excellent transition tool when moving a horse out of a more supportive shoe towards an end goal barefoot.

These are the shoes I believe in and use daily at OKSNHC. 

Sharing these before and after photos today of this high/low horse. Left is before, right after. Above is before, below after.

What is high/low? - High/low is where one front hoof has a steeper angle than the other front hoof. The steeper hoof is the "high" hoof and the less steep one is the "low" hoof. Either one of these hooves could be the correct one; it depends on what caused the difference in the first place.

Why is high/low a problem? - In the front hooves, the height of the hoof capsule directly impacts the height of the scapula and the arc of the stride of the leg in movement. A high-angled hoof will have a shorter stride, and the scapula will be sitting higher up than the opposing side. This will create an imbalance for saddle fit, with the rider often complaining that they lean to the side with the shorter hoof. This also presents a problem with symmetry riding one direction vs the other because the stride lengths will be different, and it can create a canter lead problem as well with the horse struggling to take the lead on the higher side. Not to mention, the horse will be uncomfortable and feel imbalanced in their body. They might even feel pinched in the shoulder under saddle on the higher side.

What causes it? - There are a lot of reasons for high/low to show up. The most common cause I see is what we call a grazing foot. This is where a foal prefers to graze with one hoof forward and one hoof back, and they are always in the same position, i.e., the front left is always forward and the front right is always back. With proper trimming, the hooves can be maintained in balance, but with improper trimming, the hooves will develop differently, with the outstretched front hoof becoming low and the other growing in at a higher angle. A coffin bone does not finish growing until a horse is 3-4 years old, so proper trimming is crucial from about 3 months old to keep the hooves in balance and to prevent asymmetry.

Another cause of high/low is a club foot. While this is not a true case of high/low, but rather the pathology of a club foot, it often presents with the same implications and must be managed as a high/low scenario. It is very common for clubbed hooves to be trimmed ineffectively and allowed to flare so that they appear more "normal," and unfortunately, this exacerbates the problem.

Previous injury, conformational faults, or muscle weakness can also cause high/low as they can cause a horse to be stronger or more flexible on one side of the body than the other. This imbalance in the body will directly impact the weight distribution going down the legs and can create more pressure on one side than the other, which can also alter the shape of the hooves.

How do we fix it? Can we? - "Fix" isn't really the correct word as it implies we can completely remedy the problem, but can we improve high/low? The answer is most of the time it can be improved to some degree with a combination of correct trimming, bodywork, and physical rehab for the horse.

In the case of the horse pictured here, he needed a more effective trim to control the flaring hoof wall, proper management of his club foot, and he needed the heels on the low foot left alone and the heels on the high foot trimmed as low as possible but without thinning the sole, and without overstretching his tendons. Heel changes need to be made gradually, not all at once, or they can be a shock to the system and cause discomfort or injury. His rehab will be a work in progress and will take time, but he is already moving better and starting to grow in connected hoof wall attachment.

Interested in learning more about proper hoof care and management? Check out our online hoof care course where you can delve deeper into these topics and gain valuable insights for your horse's well-being. 

Maintaining a horse's hooves is vital for their overall health and performance. Among the many aspects of hoof care, trimming the frog holds a special significance. The frog, that V-shaped structure in the center of the underside of the hoof, plays a crucial role in shock absorption, traction, and blood circulation. Properly trimming the frog not only ensures the horse's comfort but also prevents potential issues like thrush and caudal hoof pain. In this guide, we'll delve into the essentials of trimming the frog effectively, drawing insights from barefoot experts like Dr. Robert Bowker and Pete Ramey.

1. Assessment and Preparation: Before trimming, it's crucial to assess the frog. Look for any signs of lifting or detachment. These areas need to be carefully removed to prevent further damage and promote healthy growth. Use a hoof pick to clean out any debris or dirt lodged in the frog and surrounding areas.
2. Trimming Strategy: The key principle in trimming the frog is to trim as little as possible while still achieving the desired outcome. The goal is to maintain protection for the digital cushion, a critical structure that absorbs shock and supports the hoof. Dr. Bowker emphasizes the importance of preserving the frog's integrity to ensure optimal function and impact energy dispersal.
3. Maintaining Balance: Pay attention to the relative heights of the frog surface and the heel surface. The frog should not protrude higher than the heels, as this can lead to imbalances and discomfort for the horse due to excess pressure. Trim the frog carefully to achieve a balanced, uniform surface across the entire rear of the hoof.
4. Opening Collateral Grooves: Another important aspect of frog trimming is opening the collateral grooves. These grooves run along the sides of the frog and opening them up by removing and frog that is folding over will allow dirt and debris to escape. By keeping these grooves clear, you reduce the risk of thrush or discomfort caused by wedged rocks or debris. Pete Ramey advocates for regular maintenance of the collateral grooves to promote expansion and contraction of the hoof during movement.
5. Addressing Central Sulcus: The central sulcus, a groove in the center of the frog, is susceptible to developing thrush—a bacterial infection that thrives in moist, dirty environments. Cleaning out and opening up the central sulcus during trimming is essential for preventing thrush. Only remove anything detached or overgrown, and if the sulcus is tight and closed in, you can carefully widen it to help prevent or treat thrush. Use caution if the horse has thrush already making the frog tender, of has very contracted hooves as sometime they also have very thin weak frogs. 

In conclusion, trimming the frog is a critical aspect of horse hoof care that requires attention to detail and a thorough understanding of equine anatomy. By following proper trimming techniques you can ensure optimal caudal hoof health for your horse. Consistency and attention to detail are key in maintaining healthy hooves and preventing potential issues down the road.

The concept of peripherally loading the hoof is not really something most barefoot trimmers endorse. While this approach aims to shift weight-bearing forces away from the internal structures of the hoof, such as the digital cushion, frog, and coffin bone, it can inadvertently lead to a host of issues, including a weak digital cushion and prolapsed frogs. 

Peripherally loading the hoof involves applying excessive pressure to the hoof wall, often through the use of shoes or improper trimming techniques. While the intention may be to alleviate strain on the internal structures, such as the coffin bone, navicular bone, and tendons, it can result in unintended consequences. One such consequence is the prolapse of the frog, where the frog tissue becomes compressed and displaced downward due to inadequate support and stimulation.

Prolapsed frogs occur when the frog tissue, which plays a crucial role in weight distribution and shock absorption, becomes weakened and fails to maintain its proper position elevated up within the hoof capsule. This can lead to discomfort, lameness, and compromised hoof function. These horses will be very sensitive in the back of the hoof and can land toe first instead of heel first, and suffer from caudal failure if left untreated. 

Rehabilitating a hoof with prolapsed frogs requires a multifaceted approach that addresses both the underlying causes and the structural integrity of the hoof. Central to this approach is the careful stimulation and rebuilding of the digital cushion and frog tissue. By focusing on these essential components, we can help restore proper hoof function and mitigate the risk of further damage. First treat the frog for thrush, as the protecting structure for the digital cushion the frog needs to be the priority. Second, carefully bring the frog into a weight bearing state either barefoot, with boots and pads or with the use of soft hoof packing and composite shoes with frog support. 

The digital cushion serves as a critical shock absorber, dissipating the impact forces generated during movement. When peripherally loading the hoof, this vital structure may become underutilized and weakened. To counteract this, it's essential to implement strategies that encourage the development and strength of the digital cushion. This can include exercises that promote natural movement and weight-bearing, as well as proper trimming techniques that support healthy hoof function. Often the horse will learn to land toe first because of pain in the back of the hoof, but even as you remove those sources of pain the muscle memory will keep the horse landing toe first unless you also rehabilitate the body with postural changes and bodywork. 

Ultimately, the rehabilitation of prolapsed frogs is not just about restoring hoof health—it's about safeguarding the overall well-being of the horse. By prioritizing the stimulation and development of the digital cushion and frog tissue, we can help dissipate impact energy, protect the horse's joints and body, improve and restore correct biomechanics and promote long-term soundness and comfort.

​Understanding the Difference between Laminitis and Founder

In the horse world, Laminitis and Founder are often used interchangeably, but they actually mean different things.

Let's break it down:

Laminitis = Inflammation of the Lamina

Laminitis happens when the sensitive lamina around the coffin bone gets inflamed. This includes the sensitive lamina on the front and sides of the coffin bone, as well as the solar corium on the bottom of the coffin bone.

Founder = Coffin Bone Rotation

Founder occurs when the coffin bone rotates or sinks within the hoof capsule. It can be a small or big rotation, but either way, it's considered foundered. Think of it like being pregnant – you either are or you aren't. Once that hoof wall connection is gone, it has to be regrown from the top down, a long process of about 8 -12 months.

It's important to know that a horse can have laminitis without getting founder, and a horse can get founder without experiencing laminitis. While they often go together, it's not a strict rule. Some horses with laminitis progress to founder, but not always. Founder can also happen on it's own, over time due to too long in between trims or improper trimming - this is called mechanical founder. These horses might not show laminitis signs but may seem sore, stiff, or unsound.
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The great news is most cases of laminitis or founder can be healed. It's a challenging journey, but with a knowledgeable trimmer or farrier, along with some changes to the horse's diet and living conditions, recovery is possible!

Understanding Founder and Hoof Healing

Founder is a serious condition involving the rotation and potential sinking of the coffin bone within the hoof capsule. It can range from a slight rotation to a severe scenario where the coffin bone penetrates the sole and emerges at the bottom of the hoof. Although the goal is to avoid such extremes, the reality is that founder is a common issue observed in trimming practices.

In a foundered hoof, the wall at the coronary band initially displays a healthy angle, even if only for a short distance. As it descends, there is a sudden change in angle, and the wall flares forward. Skilled trimmers and farriers can identify founder, but the degree of rotation requires diagnosis through X-rays by a veterinarian.

Sometimes, a hoof wall may flare but not be foundered, this is characterized by a less abrupt angle change and often involves multiple deviations in angle. A flare is simply a stretching of the lamina, while founder is actual disconnection of the lamina.

While prompt veterinary attention is crucial during a laminitic event, X-rays are equally important for foundered horses. Collaborating closely with your farrier/trimmer is essential to determine the rotation severity and trim the hoof correctly for pain relief and healthy growth.

Though serious, founder is often treatable. A knowledgeable trimmer/farrier is vital, understanding the hoof condition and trimming to alleviate rotation, fostering the growth of a healthy, well-connected hoof wall from the coronary band down. Rehabilitation duration varies, spanning 8-12 months depending on severity and individual hoof growth rates.

The key to a successful rehabilitation is maintaining a short toe and reducing leverage on the fragile new growth, preventing excess length that could leverage the lamina apart. A short trimming schedule, typically every 2-4 weeks based on severity, is crucial. I routinely employ this approach in rehabilitating foundered horses, and I often use glue on shoes to provide comfort and soundness during the rehabilitation process.

Understanding Laminitis: A Comprehensive Insight into its Impact on Horses

Laminitis is a complex condition characterized by inflammation of the sensitive lamina enveloping the coffin bone. This intricate structure involves the sensitive lamina along the front and sides of the coffin bone, as well as the solar corium beneath the bone.

The sensitive lamina is a vascular layer covering the coffin bone, equipped with nerves and a blood supply. It intricately intertwines with the insensitive lamina, positioned on the inner side of the hoof wall. Unlike its counterpart, the insensitive lamina lacks a blood supply and nerves, yet its semi-rigid structure provides essential support. The interlocking connection of the sensitive and insensitive lamina acts like Velcro, crucial for maintaining the proper position of the coffin bone within the hoof.

When a horse experiences laminitis, the sensitive lamina becomes swollen and inflamed. This inflammation is profoundly painful as there is limited room for expansion between the interlocked insensitive lamina. The severity of laminitis varies; a horse with mild laminitis may exhibit sensitivity when walking on hard surfaces, while severe cases may result in a distinct rocked-back stance as the horse seeks relief from inflamed lamina pressure.

Swiftly reducing inflammation and relieving hoof wall pressure through trimming by a knowledgeable trimmer or farrier can often prevent the progression to founder. If left unaddressed in severe cases, the persistent pressure may lead to lamina separation, allowing the coffin bone to rotate and sink within the hoof capsule. It's crucial to emphasize that this progression is not an overnight occurrence but develops gradually, underscoring the urgency of prompt intervention to alleviate inflammation.

Laminitis can be triggered by many factors, with carbohydrate overload from lush grass or sudden grain intake being the most common. Other triggers include hormonal imbalances, stress, metabolic issues, systemic conditions, and even improper trimming or repeated concussions on hard surfaces. If you suspect your horse has laminitis, call your vet ASAP, if left untreated it can lead to serious complications.

Unraveling Acute Founder: Debunking the Myth

In our recent posts about Laminitis and Founder, we've explored the differences and subtleties of these equine hoof conditions. Now, let's delve into the intriguing but incorrect concept of "Acute Founder."

Acute Founder, often described as a rapid event - akin to an overnight occurrence, is commonly known (incorrectly) in equestrian circles. However, it's essential to clarify – this phenomenon does not truly exist.

In the equestrian world, it's not uncommon for horses to undergo gradual, unnoticed founder over an extended period - this is called mechanical founder. Despite regular hoof inspections, the lack of comprehensive knowledge sometimes leads horse owners, farriers, trimmers, and even veterinarians to overlook the subtle signs of founder. This knowledge gap can be disconcerting, underscoring the need for ongoing education within the professional community.

Now, how does this tie in with a scenario where a horse seemingly acutely founders after a grain binge? Let's break it down.

In my experience, I've encountered horses where, on the initial visit, I identified signs of founder in their hooves. Surprisingly, these horses were actively performing daily exercises and work, exhibiting no overt signs of soreness or discomfort. Often times the horse owner doesn't understand how anything could be wrong, and chooses to disregard this information.

However, dismissing this situation with an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality is a perilous choice. The consequences of neglecting this metaphorical "ticking time bomb" are substantial.

The horse continues its routine, seemingly unaffected, until a day of grain indulgence/hormonal imbalance or some other laminitis trigger, rendering the horse acutely laminitic and unable to walk. When the vet is called, the horse owner, citing the horse's soundness the day before, leads to a common misdiagnosis - Acute Founder. The assumption is that founder occurred overnight due to the laminitis event, when, in reality, it had been quietly progressing for an extended period of time.

Similar situations arise, such as a horse progressing well until it develops tenderness in a front hoof. When the vet is consulted, the assumption is that the founder occurred recently.
These occurrences, are not rare, and they underscore the importance of understanding the timeline of founder development. While laminitis can, in some cases, lead to founder, the crucial fact is that founder does not transpire overnight. For the lamina to lose its connection and the bone to initiate rotation away from the hoof wall, a gradual process unfolds. As the lamina separate, the cells secrete a liquid form of keratin, creating a lamellar wedge that progressively enlarges over time to fill the growing void between the coffin bone and the hoof wall. As the hoof wall continues to grow, the wedge pushes the wall forward creating the extreme flare we typically associate with foundered hooves.
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In summary, the notion of a horse acutely foundering overnight is a myth. Founder is a gradual buildup, while laminitis, if promptly addressed, does not necessarily culminate in founder. Continuing to deepen our understanding of these intricate hoof conditions is key to promoting the well-being of our equine friends.

I have been trimming for about 15 years now, and my trim has definitely evolved and changed along the way. There are many cases where I don’t trim from the top - if the hoof doesn’t warrant it, but there are a lot of cases that I do trim from the top, and a lot of it, as I specialize in founder rehab. I learned a long time ago, that the best trimmers and farriers (and bodyworkers and trainers and coaches and horsemen), don’t subscribe to a specific method, but stay flexible to adapt to each horse, each hoof, and each moment as needed. I live by the philosophy to never say never or always when it comes to horses, because we are constantly learning and evolving and changing things up.

A lot of the argument I get about trimming from the top is that it thins the hoof wall. And yes, I agree that it does that. In fact, thinning the hoof wall is actually part of what I’m aiming for. Not because I want to weaken the hoof or take away protection, but a thinner wall wears faster, and won’t apply as much leverage if it’s wearing as the wall grows down. And that leverage is another reason I rasp from the top. Every 1/2 inch of length is equal to 50lbs of pressure per square inch, and when a long toe applies pressure on the wall it can lead to flare and lamellar detachment. 

The biggest thing that I think people need to realize also, is that when we thin the hoof wall by rasping, there is stretched white line or lamellar wedge underneath it, which actually acts as an insulator to the wall, so we are in fact thinning the original wall, but the same amount of protection remains. 

So to me, there is no debate to be had. I will rasp from the top when flare is present, to reduce leverage on the lamina and the new growth that is coming in. If a hoof has no flare or leverage, then it doesn’t require rasping from the top. 

I would be absolutely thrilled to have someone show me a case study of a foundered horse that had a lamellar wedge, that was trimmed without ever having the wall rasped from the top, that was successfully rehabbed to have complete lamellar reconnection. Rasping from the top is hard work, and if I could find a way to rehab these horses without doing it, I’d love to save the energy. But the bottom line for me is that I’m in this business to fix horses, and this technique works well for me when used appropriately. 

Aspen arrived here on Feb 14 2023. She is a 6 year old Quarter Horse that was purchased by a previous client.

Aspen was professionally trained and started and the client bought her as a confidence builder. As it turned out, shortly after purchasing her Aspen started bucking quite dramatically when saddled. She was sent to a trainer who suspected the issues were pain related, and then the vet was called. The vet took radiographs of her back and legs and the diagnosis he came up with was boney growths on the suspensory branch attachment points likely caused by Degenerative Suspensory Ligament Desmitis (DSLD), an ultrasound was not done to confirm as he thought the radiographs were conclusive enough. 

When she arrived she was not lame, and had no visible swellings, but her owner did express she had some hind end lameness issues previously with the right hind being the worst.

While I definitely don't disbelieve the vet's diagnosis, I also see a few issues that could be contributing to her condition as well as causing their own problems. I also think that you could x-ray many sound horses and find boney changes and suspensory issues that are underlying that may not be an immediate concern.

My first concern with Aspen's hooves are the long toe and weak caudal hoof. I would like to see a shorter toe, a more tightly connected hoof wall and and more vertical heel. Her heels are under run and likely creating negative plantar angles on the hinds. Her frogs and digital cushions are also not as robust as they could be. 

From a behavioral standpoint I have only worked with Aspen twice as of this writing. The first time was to trim her, and she was quite anxious and stiff to work with. We did some groundwork and I took my time releasing when she was cooperative and trying to get as much done as I could. Below are the pics from that trim. It is not the perfect trim I would like, but it's the one we were able to get done though her anxiety. Since the trim I have worked with her again and she was much calmer, though does show a lot of anxiety through her stiff, fast movement and restrictions through her rib cage. I am excited to get to know her as she settles in here and see what unfolds for her. So far she seems sound and fairly physically capable, though a bit unbalanced and anxious. The video below the pics was shot on February 24 2023 as she ran the track system to catch up with the herd. 

The following video shows a barefoot trim on Mustang, a previously wild horse. He has huge strong frogs and digital cushions, and very thick hoof wall. This video shows the trim on the front hooves only.

This first video shows the trimming of a pretty well maintained "vertical" bar.

The second video shows bar that is a bit more "overlaid" or "embedded" and how I would trim them differently. 

I try not to get too hung up on the "type" of bars, but instead just try to trim the bar to match the solar concavity and to allow the bar to function as it should - to help structure the shape of the back of the hoof and the collateral grooves. . 

​A horse's hooves are a window into their overall health, and a well-executed barefoot trim can significantly contribute to their well-being. One of the key indicators of a successful barefoot trim is the natural wear patterns that emerge over time. In this post, we'll explore the signs of natural hoof wear and what they reveal about your horse's hoof health.

1. Even Wear Across the Hoof

A healthy barefoot trim promotes even wear across the entire hoof. When the weight is evenly distributed, it prevents the development of imbalances that can lead to discomfort and lameness. Check your horse's hooves regularly for signs of symmetry in wear.

​2. Smooth and Rounded Edges

Well-maintained hooves exhibit smooth and rounded edges. Rough or jagged edges may indicate uneven wear, and addressing this promptly can prevent issues such as chipping and cracking.

3. Sole Callusing

Natural hoof wear often results in the development of calluses on the sole. These calluses act as a protective layer, providing additional support and resilience to the hoof. A barefoot trim that encourages the development of calluses contributes to the overall toughness of the hoof.

4. Frog Engagement

A healthy barefoot trim pays attention to the frog, allowing it to make ground contact. This engagement is crucial for shock absorption and circulation. A well-trimmed frog should have a consistent texture and should not be overly recessed or protruding.

​5. Consistent Stride Length

Observe your horse's movement. A horse with a healthy barefoot trim will likely have a consistent stride length, and will land heel first. If you notice changes in stride, toe first landings or any signs of lameness, it may be an indication that the trim needs adjustment.

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​In conclusion, understanding the signs of natural hoof wear is essential for assessing the success of a barefoot trim. Regular monitoring, coupled with a knowledgeable barefoot trimmer, can ensure that your horse's hooves remain strong, balanced, and resilient.

Remember, each horse is unique, and the rate of wear can vary. Consult with a qualified barefoot trimmer to develop a trimming schedule tailored to your horse's individual needs.

​By paying attention to the signs of natural hoof wear, you contribute to the overall health and happiness of your equine companion.

Winter can transform the landscape into a beautiful wonderland, but for barefoot horses, it can present unique challenges. With a pro-barefoot mindset and strategic care, you can ensure your equine friend not only survives but thrives in winter conditions.

The Winter Impact on Barefoot Hooves

Moisture Imbalance
Embrace the natural moisture regulation capabilities of barefoot hooves. The wetter weather in winter can provide moisture to the hoof that is lost during the dry season. A little bit of moisture is a good thing, too much and we can start to see a weakening of the tubules or potentially a thrush invasion of the frog. Consider products like Artimud to combat or prevent thrush, and Stronghorn to harden the sole if too much moisture is a problem. 

Slippery Surfaces
Turn the tables on slippery surfaces with the added traction of bare hooves. Regular trimming keeps excess length at bay, reducing snow balling up in the hoof. For an extra boost, explore the world of Cavallo Trek hoof boots designed to provide grip without compromising the natural flexibility of the hoof. Boots and composite shoes can be studded for more traction when riding. 

Proactive Winter Hoof Care: A Barefoot Approach

Regular Trims
A well-maintained barefoot trim supports the hooves in facing winter challenges head-on. A shorter trim cycle to avoid excess length that will allow snow to ball up is key. If your horse lives on hard, frozen, Icey ground, consider leaving an 1/8th of an inch of extra heel height to provide some extra vertical depth in the hoof. 

Balanced Diet for Resilient Hooves
Feed your horse a nutrient-rich diet to fortify their hooves from within. Adequate nutrition not only supports overall health but enhances the natural resilience of barefoot hooves. Horses need vitamin e in their diet and they get it by grazing on fresh grass or from hay. Did you know that hay loses up to 70% of it's vitamin e content during drying? If your horse doesn't get to graze on pasture during winter, consider supplementing vitamin e in their diet. 

Hoof Boot Bliss
Hoof boots aren't just an accessory, they can provide much needed protection from hard, icy ground. You can use pads inside the boots to help thin soled horses, and studs if needed for better traction. Pro tip: use felt pads, Artimud and Gold Bond Foot powder inside your horse's boots to wick away moisture from the frog to prevent thrush. 

Active Lifestyle Advantage
Maintain a consistent exercise routine. Movement stimulates blood flow, promoting natural hoof health and resilience. Your barefoot horse is designed to move, and winter shouldn't stand in the way. Even light riding or hand walking to keep your horse moving will help. I embrace winter here in Canada and use it to refine my bareback riding and focus on foundational elements of training such as in hand work and really perfecting lateral movements at the walk. 

Hydration Happiness
Ensure your horse stays hydrated, even in colder weather. Proper hydration is the secret weapon in maintaining the strength and flexibility of barefoot hooves. I offer my horses slightly warm water after winter workouts and often will add a dash of apple cider vinegar or unsweetened apple sauce to encourage my horses to drink more. I also like to add a bit of warm water to their grain/supplements in wintertime to increase hydration. 

Conclusion: Barefoot and Bold in Winter

Winter with barefoot hooves is not a challenge to be feared but an adventure waiting to be embraced. Often the snowy landscape offers a reprieve from the muddy season, and helps to keep those furry winter coats clean and fluffy! Empower your horse to not only weather winter but to revel in it. And just think, less snow balls in their hooves, and cleaner coats leads to more time riding and less time grooming!

Cheers to a winter of happy, healthy hooves and the joy of barefoot living!

I get asked this question often from horse owners.
 
Let's talk Quarter Flare to start.
 
There are two issues that can cause the quarter to flare, first is mechanical stress placed on the hoof itself, the second is metabolic stress.
 
In a healthy hoof, the bond or interdigitation of the sensitive lamina to the insensitive lamina is tight. This connection is the white/golden line we see on the bottom of the hoof. The golden line is formed by the terminal papillae's around the rim edge of the coffin bone as they secrete a flexible type of keratin. This keratin (golden line) acts like a silicone bond between the two structures of lamina. Flexibility is key, as the insensitive lamina grows down and past the sensitive lamina that stays attached to the coffin bone itself. Because this bond must be flexible/elastic to join these two structures, it is the weakest part of the horse's hoof.  This bond can be broken by mechanical stresses put on the hoof. 
 
Mechanical stress is created when the hoof is allowed to grow too long, decreasing the ability of the frog to perform its role of providing support in the rear/center of the hoof, which then causes the full weight of the horse to push down on the hoof wall (peripheral loading). The weight and loading of the hoof wall can cause a great deal of leverage on the golden line which is how the quarter flare starts. As the wall moves away or flares, the golden line must stretch to cover the increasing distance between the two laminae. If the stress continues due to a long trim cycle or improper trimming, the golden line can break down, leading to the separation of the wall from the sole. When this separation happens, the golden line expands to cover this distance (lamellar wedge).
 
To treat quarter flare caused by mechanical stress a shorter trimming cycle should be implemented with regular maintenance trimming being performed every 2-3 weeks, allowing the frog and heels, to bear the primary impact of the footfall and not the hoof wall.
 
Metabolic Stress is a breakdown at the cellular level of the hoof. Systemic metabolic conditions such as stress, insulin dysregulation, PPID, obesity, mineral imbalance, dietary imbalance, or infection can cause a weakness within the cells of the hoof. This breakdown can cause issues within the hooves and the ability to create and maintain the strong bond between the laminae. Signs of metabolic conditions that show up in the hoof can be slow growth, angle changes to the hoof wall, brittleness, ridges, and fine line cracks in the hoof wall.

​Remember, quarter flaring, separation, and white line disease are all secondary conditions that are caused by leverage or a weakness within the hoof. First, address the cause of the weakness, and you will likely resolve the secondary issues.

Thrush is a common hoof condition in horses that affects the frog and can have serious consequences to the health of the hoof. It is caused by a fungal and/or bacterial infection and is more common during wetter weather. Thrush can create a foul-smelling chalkiness on the frog and in the collateral grooves, and can impact the shape and size of the frog. In severe cases thrush can infect the digital cushion of the hoof, this is a sensitive, shock absorbing structure in the rear of the hoof that is responsible for dissipating the impact vibrations during movement! 
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Here's some helpful information on the symptoms, treatment, and prevention of thrush in horse hooves:

Symptoms:
1. Foul Odor: One of the most noticeable signs of thrush is a strong, unpleasant odor emanating from the frog or collateral grooves when you pick the hoof out. This odor is caused by the fungus and/or bacteria and decaying tissue.
2. Black or Gray Discharge: Thrush often leads to a black or gray, moist discharge in the central sulcus of the frog or in the deepest parts of the collateral grooves. This discharge may also be accompanied by a cottage cheese-like consistency.
3. Sensitivity and Lameness: Horses with thrush may become sensitive or lame, particularly when pressure is applied to the affected area. They may show discomfort when picking out the affected hoof and an inability to load the back of the hoof during motion - resulting in toe first landings.
4. Changes in Hoof Appearance: As thrush progresses, it can cause the frog to become soft and spongy. In severe cases, the frog may even develop deep crevices or cavities.


Treatment:
Treatment of thrush in horse hooves involves several steps:
1. Cleaning: Begin by cleaning the affected hoof thoroughly. Use a hoof pick to carefully remove dirt, debris, and any loose or decayed tissue from the frog. Using the Sole Cleanse product after this process helps to disinfect the frog and sole prior to packing with Artimud or Hoof Stuff​.
2. Topical Treatments: Various topical treatments are available, such as Artimud, which is formulated to treat minor thrush and work as a preventative, and Hoof Stuff, which is formulated for deep central sulcus cracks. Using the Artimud product provides lasting protection against damage. It contains naturally active agents that eliminate bacteria and fungi and promote the formation of healthy tissue. It can be reapplied on a daily basis. For the deeper crevices in the central sulcus, Hoof Stuff is the best choice as it will stay in place with its cotton fibers, zinc oxide and honey base. For best results top the Hoof Stuff with Artimud!
3. Proper Trimming: Regular trimming and maintenance of the hooves are essential to prevent the accumulation of debris and provide better aeration to the frog. For more info on proper trimming and how to evaluate your horse's trim consider our Online Hoof Anatomy, Theory and Barefoot trimming Course.
4. Dry Environment: Ensure that the horse's living environment is clean, dry, and well-maintained. Mud and moisture can contribute to the development of thrush.


Prevention:
Preventing thrush is key to maintaining hoof health:
1. Regular Hoof Maintenance: Schedule regular hoof trims every 4 weeks with your trimmer to keep the hooves in good shape and prevent the accumulation of debris.
2. Clean and Dry Environment: Ensure that the horse's stall, paddock, and pasture are clean and free of standing water or mud. Proper drainage can help keep hooves dry.
3. Proper Nutrition: Maintain a balanced diet to promote overall hoof health. Adequate nutrition is essential for strong hooves.
4. Regular Exercise: Encourage your horse to move and exercise regularly, as this helps with blood circulation and hoof health.
5. Routine Checkups: Regularly inspect your horse's hooves for signs of thrush, especially in wet or muddy conditions. Early detection and treatment can prevent the condition from worsening.
6. Hoof Boots: Consider using hoof boots if your horse is prone to thrush or has sensitive hooves. These can help protect the hooves from moisture and debris.
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If you suspect your horse has thrush or if the condition persists despite your efforts, it's essential to consult with a veterinarian or farrier for a proper diagnosis and treatment plan tailored to your horse's specific needs.

This Arabian mare came to us in the early summer of 2022 in hopes that we could improve her comfort and hoof health. She has been foundered long term and was suffering from acute and frequent bouts of laminitis when she arrived. She was very overweight and showed the classic signs of being insulin resistant. We immediately changed her diet to low sugar hay only, and we trimmed and applied the Easyshoe Versa Grip Lights with 11 Finger Tabs. I applied these with DIM and Artimud. This is my usual favorite composite shoe package. I will be using these until her new hoof wall grows in and the sole can start developing some concavity. The shoes support the frog and digital cushion while providing protection and "artificial concavity" to the sole. The DIM provides a cushion to absorb impact and also works to keep debris from getting in-between shoe and the hoof. A thick layer of Artimud between the DIM and the hoof keep the hoof clean and fungus free.

Throughout her rehab here she has been intermittently sore, but overall shows signs of improvement. We also had her tested for PPID and the results were borderline high, and inconclusive but we chose to treat with Prescend and the results have been great. Her laminitis has subsided and she is growing in connected hoof wall, which was otherwise not possible. She has also lost an incredible amount of weight and actually almost appears too skinny, though I would rather her be a tad bit underweight until her hooves grow in more connected and can better support her.
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I have been wanting to make a how to video on my application process for composite shoes for a long time, but somehow I just haven't found the time. The video below is over an hour of footage from a recent composite shoe clinic I did, and I just sort of pieced the clips together. For this reason it is kind of choppy and the audio is broken up, but I thought there was still a lot to gain from it. 

​I had spoken on the phone to the owner of this horse prior to arriving and I was prepared to deal with a foundered horse, but I wasn't aware of the severity.

This horse has been under veterinary care and was seen by the farrier every 4 weeks for the last few months. There are also underlying PPID and IR issues.
This horse has been very lame for the last year. 

​The only radiographs I had to work with were from 6 months previous. They show significant sinking and rotation, but I suspect the damage is even worse judging by the current state of the hooves. Current radiographs would be extremely helpful, but in this case they are not available.

While this trim seems fairly drastic, I am sure I could have done more if I had current x-rays. This was a step in the right direction to restore function and set up the new growth for coming in. The owner purchased Easyboot Clouds to keep this horse comfortable moving forward and we plan to trim every 3 weeks to start.

In the pictures above you can see the huge lamellar wedge. There is so much separation in this hoof wall. I also tried not to touch the sole at all, what I did trim on the bottom was the overlaid bars and overgrown frog. I also tried to lower the heels to realign the bottom of the coffin bone. This horse has very thick bone, and will naturally have a slightly longer heel then the average 1.25 inches because of that.

From a metabolic standpoint this horse is on low sugar hay in slow feed nets placed around her paddock to increase movement, I also suggested adding biotin to her diet to help with hoof growth, and rechecking her ACTH levels to make sure her Pergolide dosage for her PPID is effective.

​I will update this case study with more picutres next time I see her.

Since the last trim the owner reports that she is moving better, though still sore. She wears the Easyboot Clouds 24/7 right now. This trim I really worked on bringing the heels down a bit more and removing some more of the large wedge from the top. Because the heels were so overgrown the frog was also overgrown, but at the first trim it was very hard and I didn’t want to remove too much. This trim the frogs were very crumbly and I trimmed them down until all the rotten material was gone. I didn’t trim any sole, but I did trim down some overlaid bar off the sole. The bar was also quite crumbly. This is still a huge work in progress and I will see her again in another three weeks and reassess.
​

So what's my plan? Generally speaking he has good flexibility in the leg so I can lower the heels about a 1/4 inch at each trim. This leaves them sitting about a 1/4 inch above the height of the sole. In a perfect world I'd like to trim him every two weeks and lower them and 1/8 of an inch at a time instead. I rarely trim the toe other then applying a bevel from the golden line outward, and I usually have a bit of frog to trim and clean up. Thankfully he grows very nice upright and manageable bar so trimming it is easy. I just ramp it down from the heel following the natural concavity of the hoof.

I usually apply a bevel to the heels anytime I have to leave them higher then I would like to. This can also be called a "rocker". ​

With a rocker applied, during motion the horse must extend his stride and flex the tendon just a little bit more in order to land heel first. You must be very careful with this that you don't ask them to extend any farther then they can comfortably handle. If you trim your heels too low or apply too much rocker you could cause them to land toe first to alleviate the discomfort, and/or risk injury. My aim to to ask for an 1/8 of an inch, and over time keep bringing that heel down until it is at a normal level. This of course is the plan, but it is sometimes a work in progress throughout the entire lifespan of the horse. 

Adding to this complicated case is the suspensory injury this horse has. He has an old fractured split bone and as the lower branch of the medial suspensory ligament  moves across it becomes torn and jagged. This has lead to an abundance of scar tissue forming, creating less flexibly and range of motion and frequent bouts of lameness as the inflammation flares up. This pertains to my job aligning the hoof as I don't want to further aggravate the injury, so I am forced to trim very conservatively until the owner and vet decide on a course of action for this reoccurring issue.
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This 5 year old mini found her way here recently, her history is unknown. She is severely foundered and was having difficulty walking, and spent most of her time laying down. She doesn't appear to have the typical metabolic syndrome "look" to her, I suspect she has foundered from lack of trimming. Although this trim is significant, I will be trimming her again in a week or so to adjust a few more angles, lower some of the heels a bit more and double check the hoof balance. This was a big change for her and she was very sore so I had to work quickly and didn't get a chance to really make the trim complete. After the trim she is moving well, though still a little bit stiffly. She will have 24/7 turnout on the track with the herd, and I suspect the stiffness is more body related due to the angle changes and will subside quickly. 

This is a maintenance trim on Jack, our IR school pony. He is trimmed every 4-6 weeks so there is usually little distortion and just a bit of excess length.

Because he is IR, we diligently manage his weight and he rarely if ever gets grazing time (always with a muzzle). He lives out 24/7 on our Paddock Paradise track system.

​Please excuse the sometimes less then perfect video angles, trimming while filming with my GoPro on my head is a bit of an art lol.

The pics below are from Odin's initial shoe pull and trim. We applied composite shoes to his fronts to provide artificial concavity due to his flat soles. You can see the long leveraging toe, flat sole and low, crushed heels.

I opted to set the breakover far back under the composite shoe in order to reduce the leverage on the new growth just below and coronary band.

Today I pulled the composite shoes and after the trim applied Glue on Easyshoe Performance shoes.
The focus was on bringing the toes back to relieve the leverage on the hoof wall as well as to allow the heels to come in at a steeper angle in order to bring the weight bearing surface back underneath the horse.
Read through the comments on the individual pictures for a more in-depth explanation.

A bit of time has passed since Odin's last update. He recently became one of our school horses so that I can give him the routine care that I think he needs. Odin presents as quite stiff and sore and very reluctant to move forward. I think he has a few combined issues and I hopeful we can help him to improve and maybe one day use him in our Youth Program. Along with his under run heels, Odin has long stretched forward toes and thin soles. He was also diagnosed with kissing spine before he came here. 

​Today I applied EasyShoe Performance NG's with 11 finger tabs, Duplo wedges, DIM for support and Artimud to combat moisture. 

​Below are the modified composites I applied. I favor the EasyShoe Performance NG's and Easyshoe Versa Grip Lights. You can use plastic wedges as well, or even build up a wedge with glue but I prefer the simplicity of the Duplo Wedges. I love how versatile these composite shoes are with the 11 finger tabs. This pics below show the shoes before I welded more tabs on. These shoes have been used a few times and you can see they still have a lot of life left to be used again. This is one of my favorite things about the 11 finger tabs, they can be ground off and new one welded on once they get too thin or lose their shape.

Our world is ever changing and the technology and research in the farrier industry is evolving fast. Composite shoes and pads are flooding the market, being manufactured by many different companies around the world.  

While I am a huge barefoot advocate, I am also an advocate for keeping horses comfortable and sometimes that means they require hoof protection. I am not in favor of traditional metal shoes because in my opinion they are too rigid and limit hoof flexion as well as increase the impact energy of movement (by negating digital cushion function). This impact must then be absorbed by the horse's joints and musculoskeletal system. Metal shoes also peripherally load the hoof (meaning they only weight the outer hoof wall), causing frog and digital cushion atrophy and lack of sole stimulation.

Composite shoes are a good alternative as they can provide protection and comfort while still allowing the hoof to function naturally to absorb impact. This is because of their anatomically minded design that incorporates weighting the frog and therefore the digital cushions as well as the sole, bars and hoof wall collectively. [Weighting the whole bottom of the hoof as nature intended]

Like traditional shoes, composites can be used in concert with hoof packing, wedges, anti fungal pastes, and be customized to the individual horses' needs and hoof shape.

In order to fully understand the benefits that composite shoes can provide we have to understand when they may be a good option for a horse. I see all shoes, boots, pads, casts and hoof protection sources as a band aid approach. This is not a negative thing, but should be seen as a means to an end. In other words we should use these devices to keep the horse comfortable while we are addressing the root cause of the problem (i.e. weak or damaged hooves) so that we can ultimately return proper hoof form and function so that protection is not needed.

Horses that have thin soles, disconnected hoof walls, weak frogs and digital cushions, who are foundered or have navicular disease can all benefit from the use of composite shoes. 

Below are several examples where I have applied composite shoes for various reasons:

​Horses that have thin soles also benefit from composites. They protect the sole and cause it to thicken by decreasing the wear on it. It is common practice for traditional farriers to "clean up" the sole during a trim, or "carve in concavity", thereby thinning the sole and removing the often ugly but helpful protective outer layer. Routine trimming like this leads to thins and weak soles that are unable to bear weight. Giving the sole a reprieve by using composite shoes call allow it to thicken and then we can transition back to barefoot in a way that allows proper hoof function to actually stimulate more sole growth and an overall thicker, healthier sole.

Horses with navicular disease or a weak caudal hoof can also benefit from using composite shoes. The design of the composite shoes I use (Easyshoe Versa product line) incorporate frog support and a thick outer rim that also weights the sole of the hoof. Typically the back of the hoof becomes weak from a lack of proper stimulation. Traditional metal shoes only weight the heels and hoof wall, lifting the frog off of the ground. This lift reduces stimulation on the frog and therefore the underlying tissues of the digital cushion. This lack of stimulation over time can lead to atrophy and degeneration. When the soft tissue starts to fail, the horse usually overloads the toe and avoids weighting the heels, further compounding the problem and this can lead to irreversible damage to the navicular region. Using a composite shoe with sole packing and/or heel padding can often create enough of a cushion that these horses can start to comfortably weight the rear of the hoof again and start to regenerate the soft tissues. Over time you can reduce the padding and sole packing and eventually move from composite shoes back to barefoot. Prioritizing heel first landings is key to this rehabilitation process.

I love to be able to utilize composite shoes when needed in my practice. They truly have become a game changer for me. For clients who are not interested in using hoof boots, or horses that require 24/7 support in the beginning of their rehab these shoes can be the difference between soundness and pain. 

In all actuality everything we can do with composite shoes can be done with some variation of hoof casts, boots and pads, but often the use of the composite shoes  is far more convenient for the owner. While my primary goal is to help the horses, I can't facilitate that if I don't keep the owners happy :)